Hotspotoutdoors

Just about to open the wallet and start on my first wheelhouse. I have read and learned from all the helpful posts on this website! I have decided to start with a 8'x 16' square frame and there will be a 2' bay over the tounge. I am planning to use tandem torsion axles and hydraulic lift. Walls will be 2-5/8" steel studs w/2" foam, plywood on the inside, and smooth alum siding on the out. I will use black EPDM membrane roofing. Camper style door, and three "box store" vinyl windows. Maple cabinets will be nestled in the bay area over the tounge, and a booth in the back. That is a sumary of my design, and I would realy enjoy all of your input on all of the details. I think I will start this weekend shopping for axles, and hydraulics!

good luck sounds like a great project!!

also a question for everyone how many people are using hydrulics now days??

Stay away from steel studs they will cause your plywood to sweat and rot out. Go with wood 2x2.

Duke you have had frost carry through steel studs even with foam insulation? I would also plan on using sealant between plywood, and studs like a small thermal break. I guess that is something to consider, it could be quite cold if I get it up to L.O.W. Thanks!!!!

had a big break through today I bought little salt & pepper shakers for my ice shack!
By the way I was wondering what is the best paint for the frame? I realy want to use good stuff! THANKS

agreed. I helped my buddy build one similar to what you are describing and we used 2x2 wood studs. He spray foamed between the studs after applying the exterior metal skin. He used a 1/4" toung and groove for the interior skin. I don't think you gain anything structurally by using metal studs. The spray foam may temper the steel but i still think you will get condensation. Wood is a natural thermal break. If you stick with Steel I would consider at least a 6 mil poly vapor barrier between the studs and your interior skin. This will push you condensation (dew) point outside your wall.

Well I am ordering my steel for my frame

1. 2x4-1/8"wall around the perimeter
2. 2x3-1/8"wall for joists
3. 3x4-1/4"for H shape at wheel area
4. 3x3-3/16" for tounge

Really suprised I am getting all of this for well under a thousand dollars!

It is amazing how much you can save when you do it yourself. I think the higher price tag for parts will come with the suspension system. Even with that, you will save a whole lot of cash by doing it yourself, and can take pride in saying you made it..

Get ready for the spendy parts!

went to northern looking for axels and hydraulics this weekend.Came home empty handed!! Does anyone have a recomendation on the size of RAM to use for the hydraulics? Guy at the store knew nothing.

I noticed an ad on HSOList.com that sells the wheel assemblies that are hydraulic. He is from Forest Lake.

You might want to check into the price that he has on them. It could save you some time. Just a thought.

If you want the best that will not chip, peel or rust use POR15
http://www.por15.com/

Prep your frame with their product called Metal-Ready
Next, brush on 2 coats of the POR-15 per directions.
You could stop there but the POR15 has no UV protection and it will fade in direct sunlight to a grayish black, but it will still protect the steel very well. If you want it to look really nice, They have a top coat that will go over the POR15, CHASSISCOAT is a semi gloss and Blackcote is a gloss black. I would just do the area you see in one of the top coats because the protection come from the POR15. The top coat just makes it pretty.

I wish I new about POR15 when I built my frame. The rock chips and rust is getting bad up front. It would have been easier to do it the first time, Now I have to work around the house being on the frame to redo it.

I need to correct myself, if the POR15 is exposed to sunlight, over time it will brake down, so it the sun exposed areas need to be top coated with a POR15 top coat or another paint.

My DAD rode with me to shop for axles this weekend, and he was talking about a roofing that he put on a camper. He said you put a black substrate down and then painted on a white coating. Has any body used this? Would this be better than black EPDM membrane?

Hey just got back from Bachelor party on The chippewa flowage. OOf! Hoping to go up to midway iron in hudson this week! Wondering if any body is familiar with this place? Aparently they have torsion axles with a 12" offset wich is great for my hydraulic system!

They have many of the supplies that you will need to do your fish house. We purchased all the metal,siding,exterior lights from them. I couldn't find any other place that could beat theirs for the LED lights. Very good place to shop.

Finaly got time to post pics!

Well I got quite a bit of the frame welded up just need to complete finishing touches around the wheels. Went to Thorne Bros. for first time ever! Wow talk about great people. I got catch covers, and two custom rods. I will post frame pics on saturday!

Pics of frame

CK, asking the obvious question did you end up getting those at the place in hudson? any chance you can share the price!

st.cloud-midway iron. It was just under $1500 for four axles four tires two sets of brakes!

would you show some more pictures of your tandem drop wheel design. I have been brain storming for a few days on a way to do it. If you would like you can e-mail me michaelwenstad@hotmail.com

This is all I have for now, but I will be posting pics as I get them!

sounds good cant wait for the pictures!

how much is needed for a trailer....to complete a whole job...starting to plan out painting a trailer prior to building it